Trend: An Influx of Asian Dessert Chains
Plus, eight independent alternatives such as Belle's and Tea Zone
Trends
Asian Dessert Chains Feed a Midlife Crisis
By Andy Dehus
I love following new food trends. It’s one of the things that keeps this line of work interesting. But what does it mean when I can’t find much good to say about a massive new trend that clearly has a huge following? Or can’t even muster the energy to sustain much interest in it?
All of this is to say that I’m not a big fan of this new flotilla of Asian dessert/dessert drink chains landing in strip malls throughout Central Ohio, and I’m going to try to explain why this isn’t just because I’m a grumpy old man.
Let’s go over what's positive about the new arrivals, such as Paris Baguette, Tous Les Jours and a slew of others. They offer a dizzying array of sweet treats reflecting the latest Taiwanese, Vietnamese, Chinese and Japanese dessert trends paired with a just-around-the-corner convenience. They’re a relatively cheap and cheerful outing. And, anytime a city like ours that sits at the midpoint of the American trend cycle embraces a diverse array of new international influences, well, that feels like progress to me.
On to the flip side.
The first downside is that, in my sampling, neither quality of ingredients nor preparation are especially high. I haven’t been to all of them (and odds are high that I never will), but I’ve been to enough to feel fairly confident in my overall impression. At one of the more pastry-focused newcomers, an employee was very open with the fact that the baked goods were not made in-house. It showed.
In other words, chains provide what you’d expect from chains. Which is hard to hold against them, except for downside No. 2: There are plenty of preexisting independent Asian dessert purveyors offering superior freshly made alternatives in Columbus. They may not have quite the same range of options in the aggregate, but quality beats quantity, and the quantity itself is pretty extensive if you know where to look (see below).
Which brings us to the biggest problem I have with the newcomers: chains should–if nothing else–offer value for the dollar, but the newcomers are no less expensive in any meaningful sense than the locally operated old guard. Which, to this Gen Xer, feels mildly insulting. Especially when everything about these chains–their graphics, their environments and their products–are contrived to look enticing in a way that clearly shows they intend to sell on style over substance and value.
For fans, I’m sure that the style is no small part of the value. I just don’t get it. Generation gap confirmed.
Eight Independent Alternatives to the Asian Dessert Chains
Belle’s Bread: One of Food & Wine’s “100 Best Bakeries in America,” and the place for freshly baked Japanese pastries and other sweets
Mjomii Dessert & Coffee House: Korean baking has embraced the macaron wholeheartedly, and while many of the newcomers reflect this trend, it’d be a crime to deprive yourself of the exquisite craft and inventiveness found in Mjomii’s selection. Their coffee is exceptional, too.
Golden Delight: Open since 1994, this bakery offers an interesting selection of Chinese pastry in their cramped little shop, but just about everyone is there for their impossibly light strawberry cake.
Tea Zone Bakery & Cafe: The cafe’s range of Korean pastries is a draw, but their bingsu (imagine a Korean shaved ice sundae) is an event!
Three Bites Bakery: Recently reopened Downtown, Three Bites seamlessly fuses European and Filipino influences into unique and cravable baked goods.
Little Dot Bakery: A staple of the Worthington Farmers Market, Little Dot aptly describes itself as “a mobile bakery and tea house serving up creative sweet and savory baked goods inspired by Hong Kong comfort food.”
Wali Dessert: Though the service can be a bit aloof, Wali offers a nifty range of the trendier side of East Asian desserts. These include mochi egg waffles, roll cakes, mango pomelo sago cups and a wide range of sweet tea drinks.
Jiu Thai Asian Cafe: OK, it’s a restaurant, but Jiu Thai serves some extraordinary desserts made by a Chinese baker in Athens. Expect to see her wares in more restaurants soon, and expect us to keep talking about her.
Notes
Around the Columbus Food Scene
Jennings Java, the local roaster that grew from out of a Muskingum University dorm-room, is set to unveil its first brick-and-mortar cafe this Sunday, Oct. 27, in Merion Village. The new coffee shop, located at 116 E. Moler St. (formerly Bake Me Happy), will be open 7 a.m. to 3 p.m.
The inaugural Grandview Heights Farmers Market kicks off indoors on Oct. 27 at Larson Middle School (1600 W. First Ave.). The market will run once a month 10 a.m.-1 p.m. on Sundays. Market organizers expect to have 20-25 vendors each week, and plan move to an outdoor market in the parking lot next to the school during warmer months. Check upcoming indoor market dates here.
Local institution Katzinger’s Deli is teaming up with Columbus Food Adventures for a special dinner celebrating the deli’s 40th anniversary. Tickets are going fast for the dinner, which takes place at 6:30 p.m. Thursday, Nov. 7, at the deli’s iconic German Village location. The event will include stories from Katzinger’s legendary founder Diane Warren, a tasting of five classic Katzinger’s deli sandwiches, plus signature sides, desserts, craft sodas and a commemorative Wolf’s Ridge brew. To secure your seats, visit the ColumbusFoodAdventures.com calendar and navigate to Nov. 7.