Dim Sum Asian Bistro Brings a Welcome Hong Kong Delicacy to Grandview Yard
Plus, COLO bids goodbye to North Market Bridge Park, Frenchi’s adds a second deli and more local food news.
Dim Sum Asian Bistro Brings a Welcome Hong Kong Delicacy to Grandview Yard
By Andy Dehus
Dim sum has often been a hit-or-miss proposition in Columbus. Sunflower Chinese Restaurant was the standard bearer for nearly 40 years. At times it was the only local option for dim sum, but it was no secret that quality declined over time. Rolling carts laden with bamboo steamer baskets last graced Sunflower’s dining room in December 2024 when the restaurant finally closed for good.
TY Ginger Asian Bistro originally opened in 2013, and five years later the proprietors added a weekend dim sum brunch. It was a more than credible alternative to Sunflower at its best, as verified by the throngs of customers who routinely gathered there before its 11 a.m. opening time just to make sure they got a table.
Now, the group behind TY Ginger have opened Dim Sum Asian Bistro at 775 Yard St. in the Grandview Yard development, bringing this uniquely delicious Cantonese tradition much closer to Downtown. Naturally, we had to check it out.
It would be hard to recount our first visit without mentioning Derek, our jovial, no-nonsense and exuberantly opinionated server. He wanted us to know what he liked, about the Hong Kong pedigree of the head chef, and all about the chef’s specialties. He wanted us to know that in his youth, he met King (then Prince) Charles and offered up photographic evidence on his phone. Fun guy!
I wouldn’t have ordered the chow fun—thick, meaty, stir-fried rice noodles with beef—without Derek’ s guidance, but his insistence that it was too good to miss led it to our table. He was not wrong. The ever elusive wok hei—that beguiling smoky flavor that only top wok chefs seem to manage to tease out of stir fries—enveloped every bite, and the succulent strips of beef were velveted to a beautiful yielding texture. An unexpectedly great start from an often mundane dish.
Next, came the pan-fried chive dumplings, another Derek hit: satisfyingly crispy pastry packets filled with bits of shrimp and heaps of diced allium. Every bite delivered on dim sum’s promise of unique flavor combinations in harmony, and the serving of three will always lead to an awkward moment between two diners.
We also ordered the har gow, steamed dumplings filled with shrimp, which our expert dim sum guide Rod Chu suggests are a true test of the genre. While we didn’t have him along for input this time, we’d think the delicate wrapper and large hunks of shrimp would likely please him. They did us.
Then it was time for the pan-fried taro cake—several squares of taro, shrimp and squid cooked to warm softness on the inside and a nice crunchy crisp on the outside. Yes, another Derek pick. The taro cake nicely demonstrated dim sum’s signature texture contrasts, and the flavor was both deeply enjoyable and difficult to characterize—it’s unlike anything I’ve had before. No doubt I’ll order it again.
Finally, the xiao long bao (aka soup dumplings) arrived. This dish is a bit of a lightning rod, with many online devotees claiming that Columbus does not have a solid rendition of it anywhere. Dim Sum Asian Bistro’s preparation is unlikely to change their minds. (Notably, it was not a Derek pick.)
Even so, it was a great meal. While we can’t guarantee you that Derek will be your server—and we can’t promise that Dim Sum Asian Bistro is the equal of the fabled dim sum halls of Toronto, San Francisco or Hong Kong—we can promise that this is a kitchen that’s capable of some truly impressive Cantonese cooking. It’s very much worth a look.
Keep Reading» To learn more about the basics of dim sum-style dining as well as the full range of options in Central Ohio, check out our “Dine Like an Expert” guide on the topic.
News & Happenings
Around the Columbus Food & Drink Scene
COLO Market & Oyster Bar announced it will shut down its location inside Dublin’s North Market Bridge Park. Its last day will be this Sunday, Jan. 11. The seafood monger will remain open at North Market Downtown (59 Spruce St.).
London-trained baker Riley Harris announced that she plans to open a second bakery at 1089 W. First Ave., formerly home to The Butcher & Grocer in Grandview. Harris’ Love Riley, which is known for vintage-inspired cakes, opened its first storefront last February at 14 Dillmont Drive.
The Mediterranean fast-casual eatery Shawerma Bite is now open at 4100 Worth Ave. at Easton. Shawerma Bite has two other locations in Central Ohio, including one in Dublin and another near OSU’s campus.
Frenchi’s Deli & Bakery has added a second storefront, this one at 1219 N. High St., just south of Condado in the Short North. The deli specializes in hoagie sandwiches with a French twist and recently added pastries like croissants and TikTok-famous crookies.
Tea Zone Bakery & Cafe abruptly closed on Dec. 31 after 20 years in business. The Asian bakery and cafe at 5025 Olentangy River Road, which was known for its cakes, bing su and other desserts, had changed ownership in 2021.
Great writeup on the dim sum experience here. The detail about wok hei in the chow fun realy captures what makes top-tier Chinese cooking stand out from just decent execution. I'm intrigued by the taro cakes especially since that texture contrast between crispy exterior and soft interior is hard to nail consistently. The fact that Derek guided you towards all the best dishes shows how critical good service is for navigating dim sum menus when you're not already familar with every item. Definitely adding this to my Columbus restaurant rotation.