Our Thanksgiving Traditions
Along with local chefs and one Dr. Breakfast, we share some of our favorite food traditions for Turkey Day and creative ways to use up the leftovers.
Every Thanksgiving, the Edwards crew in Nashville makes chicken and dumplings. They are probably more essential to the holiday than the turkey.
Maybe my favorite part is the ritualistic rolling out of the biscuit dough, a task passed down to the kids in the family since I was young. Kids, after all, love a rolling pin.
Usually the older kids (who are now in their 20s and 30s) will teach the younger ones how to roll the dough thin and slice the dumplings into thin strips. The dumplings are then—very gently(!)—pushed down into the simmering chicken broth until they are almost translucent.
Although we love them, the dumplings are admittedly not much to look at—a pale plop of brothy dough that, on your plate, runs nicely into the turkey and cornbread dressing—but they only get better tasting (if not better looking) with age.
I was telling Bethia and Andy about my family’s dumpling ritual, which got us wondering about the Thanksgiving traditions—and leftover food hacks—that others in our food-enthusiast community carry on. Here’s what they shared, and from the three of us at The Columbus Foodletter, Happy Thanksgiving!—Erin Edwards
What are some of your Thanksgiving food traditions?
The tradition that we have is that I make the turkey and my mom makes the good food! I usually will make two turkeys: one smoked (our company tradition is to smoke turkeys for the entire staff to take some of the worry off) and one experimental turkey that is usually a combination of cured, tandoori-marinated, cold-smoked, sous vide, and fried just to see how it turns out. The only part more fun for me is the gravy. Thanksgiving is sad without gravy! My mom makes murgh pulao, Cornish game hen roast and lamb shanks that always taste better and are more popular [than the turkey]. Can't win 'em all!—Avishar Barua, Joya’s Cafe and Agni
My first Thanksgiving was in 1993 when I first moved to the USA. We lived in Lincoln, Nebraska, and our departmental administrative assistant invited us and other international students to her home since we were away from our families. We were really touched by her gesture. We have kept that tradition of inviting students and friends who are away from their families. Usually it is the regular Thanksgiving menu during the day, but we always end up having biriyani for dinner!—Bidisha Nag, Create Your Curry
We don’t have many set Thanksgiving traditions as my parents are in England, and Andy’s parents are usually enjoying the Florida warmth by late November. I grew up having turkey for Christmas instead of Thanksgiving. One English accompaniment to roast turkey that hasn’t caught on stateside is bread sauce, which is a very bland sauce of white breadcrumbs cooked in milk and seasoned with onion, cloves and nutmeg. When I’m hosting or invited to someone’s house for Thanksgiving I usually make my favorite cranberry sauce and spare them the bread sauce. I love the freshness and texture that the fresh pomegranate seeds add. I do love pumpkin pie, especially cold for breakfast the next day. This year I’m going to try Alison Roman’s recipe. I love the idea of the gingersnap crust.—Bethia Woolf
My family is made up of immigrants, Thai and South African, so we always include those flavors. Our favorite items include spring rolls to snack on, and we usually spend a day smoking meat of some sort. Usually beef, since turkey isn’t big in either Thailand or South Africa.—Damian Ettish, Fetty’s Street Food
I didn't grow up with Thanksgiving, and have never developed a palate for turkey. I always cook lamb for our family. Last year, I was given a turkey and I roasted it with a spicy masala rub. It made for a great stock, too. I usually make a cranberry chutney, and then we have the usual sides. The cranberry chutney is Indian-spiced. I finish it with a tadka (mustard seeds, dried red chilis, curry leaves). I sometimes stir in a touch of pomegranate molasses.—Sangeeta Lakhani, Service! Relief Effort for Hospitality Workers
One of my favorite thanksgiving traditions comes from my dad’s side of the family. His great grandmother made something called cinnamon pie! It was a Depression-era recipe that has been passed down, and we still make it on Thanksgiving to this day. The recipe is unique in that the filling is cinnamon, egg, water and sugar. When baked, the cinnamon rises to the top and crusts over, leaving this warm toasty cinnamon flavor!—Aaron Clouse, Littleton’s Market Bakery
One of our must-have dishes is pumpkin soup. Beth's grandma always made it for the family on Thanksgiving, and we've kept up the tradition. We'll make multiple batches, and typically serve it with ranch oyster crackers. Also, pro-tip for all the Thanksgiving aficionados: Get yourself a Canadian friend so you can celebrate two Thanksgivings every year.—Nick Dekker, Breakfast with Nick
What do you like to do with Thanksgiving leftovers?
Curry and sandwiches are the best! White meat needs a bit of moisture, so a curry is excellent, while the dark meat can find its way into a sandwich that is composed only of whatever was used yesterday. Refried slices of stuffing ‘bread’ are excellent moistmakers!—Avishar Barua, Joya’s Cafe and Agni
My favorite use of leftovers is a traditional English pie. This Jamie Oliver recipe is a fantastic way to enjoy leftover turkey, and it’s even better with smoked turkey. Vacuum-packed chestnuts are easy to find at Chinese grocery stores. —Bethia Woolf
When I [used to] make a turkey, it was always just the bird that was left. I really like making Southern-style turkey and dumplings, because I can use the bones for stock and all the meat.—Laura Lee, Ajumama
The best thing about Thanksgiving turkey, according to my son, is the leftovers. I take out the meat, blend it in the food processor, mix it with Indian spices and make kebabs. Sometimes our friends also share their leftovers, and I make kebabs for them, too!—Bidisha Nag, Create Your Curry
I love open-faced turkey sandwiches. So, my favorite use of leftovers is stirring together shredded turkey and gravy, then ladling it over slices of bread with a scoop of mashed potatoes.—Nick Dekker, Breakfast with Nick
I usually get some good quality buns and make smoked beef toasties (South African grilled cheese, aka braaibroodjie). Slices of our smoked meat and mashed potatoes mixed with other sides. And spring rolls in the toaster to crisp up.—Damian Ettish, Fetty’s Street Food
My family always makes a ham on Thanksgiving, so one of my favorite things to do is to make a ham-and-bean soup after the holiday. I look forward to it every year. We also will take the extra stuffing, turkey and gravy, and make Thanksgiving flatbreads.—Aaron Clouse, Littleton’s Market Bakery
I always put out some to-go containers so the extended group of friends and family can take food home. I also have two boys in the house that you would think I never feed! We rarely wake up to leftovers because it turns into a midnight snack for them.—Sangeeta Lakhani, Service! Relief Effort for Hospitality Workers
Vietnam has a special significance to my family because that’s where my sister-in-law was born, plus I briefly lived in Hanoi after college. Although it’s certainly not super-authentic, I’ve gotten in the habit of making pho from the leftover turkey and bones, using Samin Nostrat’s Turkey Pho recipe as a guide. It’s really delicious with a ton of fresh basil, cilantro and lime.—Erin Edwards
Happy Holidays, all! It has been such a treat to read your posts throughout this year. Because of your foodletter, I have discovered new restaurants, have been inspired to shop at more diverse grocery stores, and have even become a volunteer at Ro's kitchen. Cheers!
I love the contributors to this piece.
I smoke our turkey and, frankly, I could just sit and eat that. I can pass on the many, many sides.