Have you Explored Reynoldsburg's Dining Scene Lately? It’s Worth a Revisit
Plus, big news from Ray Ray's and two local butchers call it quits.
Housekeeping Note: This week, we’re trying out a Wednesday & Friday publication schedule. So, the Foodletter will be back on Friday. Thanks!
Reynoldsburg Now Boasts Nepali, Salvadoran, Ethiopian and Other Cuisines
By Andy Dehus
Downtown Reynoldsburg has a distinct Himalayan vibe. If the storefronts on the main strip aren’t fully 50-percent Nepali/Nepali-Bhutanese-owned, they can’t be far from it. Restaurants, markets, jewelers, clothing stores, resource centers—you name it—it’s there and it’s unmistakably all geared towards the Nepali community. (According to CRIS, Columbus is home to the largest Nepali-speaking Bhutanese population in the country.)
What do you call a development like that? A bit of curious Googling led me to the concept of the “ethnoburb.” I can't confidently say that Reynoldsburg qualifies as Central Ohio’s first ethnoburb, but it does seem to fit the description as I read it.
We were first drawn to the area several years ago when noted Nepali restaurant Sargam first opened. Many more have debuted since then, including Jayaho, Himali Heritage Cuisine & Event Center, Durbar, Darshan and King’s Grill & Bar. Smudge the borders a bit and others come into focus, including Yak & Yeti.
Where to start?
A friend of Food Adventures with significant experience in Bhutan and Nepal recommended we try Durbar (7621 E. Main St., Reynoldsburg), and the tip was spot on. With its wood carvings and royal red booths (Durbar means “palace”), it’s a very pleasant place to peruse what must be one of the most extensive Nepali menus in the city. From it, we chose mustang ko aloo (crispy fried potatoes with garlic, ginger and a tangy sauce), fried chicken momos (Himalayan-style dumplings), and the Chef’s Special Thali featuring a standout lamb curry. All were well prepared, nicely plated and kindly served. The only thing that compromised our enjoyment of them was a sense of FOMO over the staggering number of new-to-us menu items we didn’t try.
If the recent explosion of Nepali culture was Reynoldsburg’s first surprise, its variety beyond South Asian was its second. Latin American, Caribbean, African and Balkan cuisines lie within its borders, with Salvadoran and Ethiopian/Eritrean prominent among them. We decided to give a few a try recently.
Los Pinos Salvadoran & Mexican Food (1780 Brice Road, Reynoldsburg) confuses and delights in equal measure with a cafeteria line, extensive made-to-order menu, and a mix that emphasizes Salvadoran food but includes Honduran and Mexican as well. Its humble Brice Road strip mall environs hosts a steady stream of both day laborers and businessmen eager for a taste of home, and its 6 a.m.-10 p.m. hours seem designed to cover all work shifts. Across two visits to Los Pinos, its popularity was striking. Freshly cooked baleadas (Honduran flour tortillas filled with beans, crema and eggs) and pupusas (Salvadoran filled cornmeal cakes) seemed like a good test of their wares. Each was much closer to the best we’ve had than the worst, efficiently served and very reasonably priced. Explains the crowds, explains their upbeat vibe.
Upon entry, there’s not much to hint at the delicious cooking coming from the kitchen in the back of Simply Balkan Market (6020 E. Main St.), but there’s plenty of reason to explore its takeout menu. The market’s butcher counter grinds traditionally seasoned beef and pork blends that go into prepared dishes like the market’s savory cevapi/kebapi (grilled minced meat) and its you’ll-regret-it-but-it’s-worth-it Bomba Burger: a wet, sloppy and delicious Macedonian street burger filled with a grilled cevapi-like patty, fries, veg and plenty of sauce.
We recently explored Hilliard’s booming international dining scene, and now we’ve been pleasantly surprised by Reynoldsburg’s. The seasoning of the suburbs continues!
Here are some other Reynoldsburg spots worth checking out:
Asmarina Deli & Cafe (7127 E. Main St., Reynoldsburg): An Eritrean eatery offering dishes like zigni, tibs and shiro, as well as Italian-influenced fare such as pasta and paninis. The cafe also offers coffee and a wide array of baked goods.
El Burrito Loco Y Pupuseria (1361 Brice Road): The name suggests Mexican (a hedge that many Salvadoran-run restaurants seem to make), but the menu gives more than equal space to a wide range of homestyle Salvadoran offerings.
La Patrona (6078 E. Livingston Ave.): Salvadoran and Mexican are both on offer at this low-key restaurant and bar.
Sidra Sambusa House (1792 Brice Road, Reynoldsburg): An East African cafe featuring Ethiopian-influenced savory dishes such as fatira (a large fried pancake), plus sweet pastries and a broad range of coffees and teas
Amani’s Home Bakery (6589 E. Main St., Reynoldsburg): A no-nonsense bakery offering Ethiopia’s signature injera, plus sambusas and a limited range of market goods
Sakura Hawaii BBQ & Ramen (6018 E. Main St.): Mainstream Japanese fare like ramen, udon and sushi, plus Hawaiian BBQ
Tacos El Fogoncito (1909 State Route 256, Reynoldsburg): Real-deal Mexican, including al pastor shaved from a shawarma-style rotisserie
Do you have a Reynoldsburg gem we need to know about? Share it in the comments!
Notes
Around the Columbus Food & Drink Scene
Big barbecue news: Ray Ray’s Hog Pit is relocating from its original address alongside Ace of Cups, where its truck and smoker have spent more than 10 years. The beloved barbecue spot is moving into a brick-and-mortar space at 4214 N. High St. (formerly Wizard of Za) in Clintonville.
It’s been a bad news week for local butchers. Saddleberk is closing its retail space in North Market Bridge Park, and The Butcher & Grocer, which closed its last retail location last year, has now shut down its wholesale operation TB&G Meats. Owner Tony Tanner has put the James Road space up for lease.
The Short North sushi spot 1126 Restaurant will be permanently closing May 18 at 1126 N. High St. Good news for sushi fans, though: 1126 Restaurant’s sibling Short North establishment, 698 Restaurant, is remains open down the street.
I have lived in Reynoldsburg since 1978. The ethnic choices are amazing.The Lantern is a great Chinese restaurant. Milano's and La Scala are great Italian restaurants. There is a great Dominican food truck at Livingston and main. There is a great Ramen and Hawaiian restaurant on Livingston. There is another Indian restaurant on Livingston just west of the high school. There is a fantastic boba tea shop on main just west of wagner...next door to the family 's Indian restaurant (in the same strip as Tyler's pizza).
I have eaten there a half dozen or so times. My fav so far is mofungo...mashed fried plantains with other goodies mixed in. I usually pick something I do not know the name of.