Columbus, We Have a Fried Chicken Emergency
Is Southern fried chicken a dying art in Columbus? Plus, Huli Huli debuts Downtown and more local food and drink news.
With the Closure of Crispy Coop and Hot Chicken Takeover, I’m Declaring an Emergency
By Erin Edwards
Only a crisis would send me in search of fried chicken at a gas station, but apparently that’s where we are.
Allow me to explain. You see, I’m someone who cares deeply about good fried chicken. I grew up building food memories at The Loveless Cafe outside Nashville, where the stellar fried bird was second only to the biscuits and peach preserves.
Before the trend went global, I was an early member of the Prince’s Hot Chicken fan club. Prince’s original location was the OG Nashville hot chicken place—anyone who tells you it was Hattie B’s is lying or misinformed.
And last year, the No. 1 meal I had all year long was the whole chicken dinner (some of it fried) at Brochu’s Family Tradition in Savannah, Georgia. (It’s a must if you go to Savannah, along with The Grey.)
Columbus, I’m firing up a bright red flare: We have a dearth of good fried chicken in these parts. Yes, we have the chicken fingers at Rooster’s and Raising Cane’s; we have excellent Korean fried chicken at CM Chicken; and you’ll find crispy fried chicken sandwiches in every corner of the city. But I’m talking about bone-in, Southern-style fried chicken.
Hot Chicken Takeover, in the early years before founder Joe DeLoss sold it, did a very good impression of Prince’s—serving quality Nashville hot chicken and, at the time, the best banana pudding in town. You know how HCT worked out.
Remember Double Comfort? It’s been almost a decade since it closed. Crispy Coop was decent as well, but it recently shut down in March.
Perhaps, I’m just a Gen-Xer shouting to the sky and hoping to see drumstick-shaped clouds.
This scarcity of options may in part be the result of a generational shift: Kids who grew up on chicken fingers and chicken nuggets are now adults who believe chicken should be served only in this bite-size, dippable state. Thank you, McDonald’s and Chick-fil-A.
Indeed, some chicken-focused chains are increasingly shifting to boneless chicken in an aim to reach younger consumers and to create “efficiencies” that make their restaurants easier to operate.
Just take Bojangles, which entered the Central Ohio market in 2023. In growth markets such as Ohio, the Southern fried chicken chain has changed its menu to boneless chicken tenders while reserving bone-in chicken for its Southern units. As one Bojangles spokesman told QSR Magazine: “Younger people aren’t eating as much bone-in chicken, so let’s create a platform that is more relevant and more exciting for that younger consumer at the same time creating a platform that is easier for our franchisees to operate.” (I love food being referred to as a “platform,” by the way.)
Many folks (myself included) are also more health-conscious these days, many inclined to avoid fried foods and gluten-based breading. In some cases, restaurants are following suit. I found it interesting that The Pearl switched from a fried chicken entree to a roasted one a few years ago (chicken and waffles are on the brunch menu, however).
Should we eat fried chicken every day? Even a fried bird fiend like myself admits: No. However, all things in moderation.
So, this is my old-fashioned plea to someone local—someone who knows good bird—to open a fried chicken joint or add this crispy piece of nostalgia to your menu. I don’t care if it’s casual or fancy—just let it be good.
This is also my attempt to point you to some of the very few spots we have serving respectable bone-in fried chicken in Columbus. Yes, one happens to be a gas station.
Here are four to try:
Modern Southern Table
In my opinion, Sadaya “Daisy” Lewis and her MST team have set the bar for fried chicken in Columbus. I like that the crust isn’t too thick, the chicken is nicely brined without being too salty and the meat retains its moisture. Plus, you can’t go wrong with any of the sides—from the excellent turkey and turnip greens to the real-deal Southern mac ’n’ cheese. The only thing I don’t like? Having to pick between the chicken and the excellent fried fish. MST now has two locations: the original inside Budd Dairy Food Hall and a newer storefront in Clintonville.
FriendShip Kitchen
Walking into the convenience store at this gas station chain in Canal Winchester, you immediately see fried chicken and jojos in a heated case to your left. (Heat lamps don’t often fill me with confidence.) Aside from not being quite crispy enough because of said heat lamp, I was thoroughly impressed with FriendShip Kitchen’s poultry game. The skin was nicely salty and a golden-orange. The chicken meat was surprisingly juicy and still steaming hot. For comparison’s sake, I went down the road to Popeyes Louisiana Kitchen as well. FriendShip Kitchen wins easily compared to that fast food joint’s flavorless effort.
The Eagle
Although I wouldn’t pick The Eagle over Modern Southern Table, this Cincinnati-based outfit has solid fried chicken, with a spice-laden (though not spicy) exterior. If you’re a big group looking to dine family-style—passing around your chicken and Southern sides—then The Eagle fits the bill. Don’t forget to order the spoonbread with maple butter.
Alqueria
Chef-owned Alqueria on King Avenue always has buttermilk fried chicken on the menu–and for good reason. This standout entree is a nicely seasoned, 3-piece portion (drum, thigh and breast), served during a recent visit with sauteed green beans and a sinful Mascarpone potato purée. Plus, you can pair your poultry with a glass of cava to cut through the fat–try finding that at a gas station. The chicken eats a little wet, probably because it comes drizzled with hot honey. For a crispier experience, ask for the honey on the side. Subourbon, Alqueria’s sister restaurant in Linworth, also offers fried chicken of the boneless variety.
Have a go-to fried chicken spot? Let us know in the comments.
Notes
Around the Columbus Food & Drink Scene
Huli Huli Tiki Lounge, which got its start slinging Mai Tais and Painkillers in Powell, will make its Downtown Columbus debut today, May 20, at 4:30 pm. The tiki bar is located at 22 E. Mound St., formerly home to the Jury Room.
Chef Laura Lee, a friend of the Foodletter, announced this week that she’s shutting down her food truck, Ajumama, after 14 years on the road. Ajumama’s last day of business will be Saturday, May 30. Lee, whose truck specializes in Korean street food, cited rising food and gas prices, an uncertain economic outlook and the physical toll of working on a food truck among the reasons behind her decision.
Mezcla’s long-awaited return is almost here. The Summit Street restaurant, which was damaged by a van in January, is set to reopen Friday, June 5, after renovations. Dining reservations are open now.
The ninth annual Strawberry Jam, a celebration of Ohio’s strawberry season, returns to Land-Grant Brewing Co. (424 W. Town St.) this Memorial Day weekend May 23-24. The event features local makers, live music, and plenty of beer and strawberry-inspired treats.
The Columbus Asian Festival takes place May 23-24 at 1755 E. Broad St. in Franklin Park. The two-day festival includes live dance and musical performances, martial arts demonstrations, dragon boat races and, of course, plenty of food vendors.
Long live Korean fried chicken!
Love, love, love this well written, informative and brilliantly witty article! Well done, Erin!